Your suspicion is reasonable and the marketing does overclaim, but in your specific case the answer is still yes.
A standard stick uses a potentiometer: a wiper physically scraping a carbon track. The track wears where you use it most, the reported centre moves, and you get drift. That is the mechanism behind the overwhelming majority of drift cases, including almost certainly both of your previous controllers. A hall effect stick measures a magnet's field with a sensor that never touches anything. There is no wiper, no track and nothing to wear through, so that specific failure mode is genuinely gone, not reduced. Two controllers in three years means you are the buyer this technology is actually for.
Now the honest limitations, since you asked. Hall effect sticks are not immune to every fault. They can be sensitive to nearby magnetic fields, so a badly designed pad, or a magnetic phone mount or stand sat right against it, can introduce error. They sometimes need slightly more deadzone than a potentiometer pad out of the box, because the raw signal behaves differently near centre, and a few budget implementations ship with poor firmware calibration that feels worse than a good conventional stick despite the better sensor. The sensor is only one part of the controller. Cheap hall effect pads still have cheap buttons, cheap triggers and cheap shoulder bumpers, and those will fail on their own schedule.
So buy on the whole controller, not on the sensor type. If two pads are similar quality and one has hall effect sticks, take that one. Do not take a poorly built hall effect pad over a well built conventional one. And whichever you buy, run a drift test in the first week and keep the number, because that baseline is what tells you later whether anything has actually changed.
