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Can I Fit Hall Effect Or TMR Sticks In My DualSense, And How Do I Check The Job?

Asked by Rohit B.0 views

I have a DualSense with drift on both sticks and I'm thinking of replacing them myself with Hall effect or TMR modules instead of the original type. I have a soldering iron and have done basic soldering before. Two questions: is this actually doable on a DualSense, and after I install them how can I check everything is right using your tests? I read that calibration is needed after replacing, is that true?

Brand
Sony
Model
DualSense CFI-ZCT1W
Connection
USB-C Cable
System
Windows 11
Browser
Chrome 149
Detected Controller
DualSense Wireless Controller
Buttons And Axes
17 buttons, 4 axes
Repair Cleaning And WarrantyPS5 DualSense
Test used in this questionStick Drift TestDetect unwanted stick movement while you keep your hands off
Open Free Test
Short Answer

Yes. DualSense sticks are soldered, so it is a desoldering job rather than plug and play, but drop-in Hall effect and TMR modules exist for it. Calibration afterwards is genuinely needed, and the DualShock Calibration GUI plus our drift and range tests let you confirm the result.

Verified By Gamepad TesterVerified By Gamepad Tester
Thiago Alves
Thiago AlvesVerified Gamepad Tester team memberGamepad Tester Team
Hardware Repair Educator · 11+ years experience · Answered Jun 23, 2026

It is doable and a popular upgrade, but be clear-eyed about the hard part. On a standard DualSense the stick modules are soldered to the main board through several pins each. Removing the old module cleanly is the difficult step, not fitting the new one. With basic experience, what makes it go well is a desoldering pump or wick, flux, enough heat and patience. The classic mistake is lifting a pad off the board by forcing a module out before every pin is free.

Choose modules made for the DualSense specifically. Several makers sell Hall effect and TMR versions designed as direct replacements. TMR has a practical advantage here: it draws little enough power to run on the controller's existing stick supply, which is one reason it has become popular for this exact job.

On calibration: yes, you need it. The controller stores calibration for its original sticks and the new modules will not match it exactly. Typical symptoms are a centre slightly off zero or a range that stops short of the edge. The DualShock Calibration GUI fixes both on a genuine DualSense over USB in Chrome or Edge, and the consolemods replacement guide recommends that same sequence after fitting.

Then verify with our tests, before you close the shell if you can. And if you own a DualSense Edge rather than a standard DualSense, its stick modules are user-swappable, so you skip the soldering entirely.

Step By Step Fix
  1. Before opening anything, run the stick drift test and the joystick deadzone test and save screenshots to compare against later.
  2. Open the controller, disconnect the battery and desolder one module at a time. Clear every pin fully before lifting it out.
  3. Fit and solder the new module, then inspect every joint for bridges. Reconnect the battery and test before final assembly.
  4. Connect by USB, open the DualShock Calibration GUI in Chrome or Edge, and run Calibrate stick center, then Calibrate stick range.
  5. Run the stick drift test: both axes should rest within plus or minus 0.02. Then use the range view of the deadzone test and rotate each stick slowly; the trace should reach the edge evenly in every direction.
  6. Save the calibration permanently only once both tests look right.
  7. Play for an hour, then re-test. A reading that has moved means a joint or the calibration needs another look.

Tested on: Applies to DualSense CFI-ZCT1W and later revisions on Windows 11 with Chrome or Edge. Procedure checked against the consolemods thumbstick replacement guide and the DualShock Calibration GUI project.

Sources
  1. PS4 and PS5 thumbstick replacement guide
  2. DualShock Calibration GUI source code

Checked by Chloe Henderson on . How we verify answers

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Community Replies 4

  • Accepted Solution
    Vishal DeshpandeCommunity Member

    Did this last month with TMR modules. Desoldering took me an hour per side, fitting took ten minutes. Range calibration was the step that made it feel right.

  • Rohit BansalCommunity Member

    Done! Left stick rests at 0.00, right at 0.01, range circle is even. One joint was cold the first time and the X axis jittered, resoldered it and it's fine.

  • Ellen AshbyCommunity Member

    Check the module listing matches your exact controller before ordering. I bought the wrong ones first.

  • Thiago AlvesCommunity Member

    Good point, Ellen. Match the listing to your exact controller model before ordering and keep the old modules until the new ones test clean.

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Thiago Alves
Written and tested by

Thiago AlvesVerified Gamepad Tester team member

Hardware Repair Educator at Gamepad Tester

Thiago teaches controller repair. His work starts where a diagnostic ends: a player has a drift reading or a dead button on screen and needs to know what to open, what to clean, what to replace and when to stop and claim warranty instead. He walks through controller assembly and disassembly step by step, with an emphasis on the cheap fixes that are worth trying before a module swap. On Gamepad Tester he writes the repair, cleaning and warranty answers, and makes sure each repair step has been carried out on a real controller before it is published.

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  • 8 answers on Gamepad Tester
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Each answer is written by the specialist who owns that part of the hardware, tested on a real controller, and checked by a second team member. How we verify answers

Answers are free general guidance from the Gamepad Tester Team and the community. Opening a controller or replacing a thumbstick module can void your warranty, so check the maker's support or warranty first. Battery and soldering work carries a real risk of damage or injury.

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