Both things can be true at once, and the explanation is how controller firmware is distributed rather than a bug in the app.
Three things cause this. First, staged rollout: a new firmware release goes out progressively rather than to every controller on day one, so up to date genuinely means current for your controller at this moment. Second, hardware revision: the Model 1914 has shipped in several internal revisions, and a firmware version intended for one revision is not offered to another. A version number you read in release notes or a forum thread may simply not apply to your unit, and installing it is not possible rather than merely blocked. Third, the delivery path matters: the Windows app and the console do not always offer the same thing at the same time.
The practical sequence that gets you furthest. Connect the controller by USB cable rather than wirelessly, because some updates are only offered over a wired connection. Then try the console route as well as the PC app, since one frequently offers a version the other does not. Make sure the Xbox Accessories app itself is updated from the Microsoft Store, because an outdated app checks against an outdated manifest, and this one catches people out regularly.
On your underlying dropout problem, which matters more than the version number. Do not wait for a firmware version you may not be eligible for. Our dropout guidance covers the other high-yield causes, and in practice battery contact tension and console or adapter positioning resolve more of these than firmware does. Run the connection stability test for ten minutes now and record the dropout count, then work through those, because you will likely fix it without the update.
And one caution: do not install firmware from anywhere other than Microsoft's own tools. Third party firmware files for controllers are a reliable way to brick one permanently.
