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Clicking My Right Stick Also Nudges The Camera Slightly

Asked by Kwabena A.10,920 views

When I click R3 the camera twitches a little as the click registers. On your thumbstick click test I can see the click register and at the same moment the axis values jump by about 0.05 before settling back. Both sticks do it, the right one worse. It is subtle but in a shooter it is enough to pull my aim off at the exact moment I am clicking to melee. Is this a fault or does every controller do this and I have only just noticed?

Brand
Sony
Model
DualSense CFI-ZCT1W
Connection
USB-C Cable
System
Windows 11
Browser
Chrome 141
Detected Controller
DualSense Wireless Controller
Buttons And Axes
17 buttons, 4 axes
Short Answer

Every controller does this to some degree and a small jump is normal. 0.05 is on the high side but within tolerance, and it is a physics problem rather than a fault. Your in-game deadzone is where to address it.

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Arjun Mehta
Arjun MehtaVerified Gamepad Tester team memberGamepad Tester Team
Calibration And Signal Processing Programmer · Answered Mar 21, 2026

Every analog stick does this, and you have simply noticed something real that most people never measure. Whether yours is excessive is a fair question and the number helps.

The mechanism is unavoidable. Clicking a stick means pushing it down the axis of its shaft, but your thumb is never perfectly on that axis, and the gimbal that lets the stick tilt has to have a small amount of play in order to move at all. So a downward push always produces a little lateral deflection, the potentiometers report it honestly, and you get a brief jump before the stick settles. This is designed-in physics, not a defect, and it is why games that map melee or sprint to a stick click often apply a short input filter around the click event.

On magnitude: across controllers we have measured, a click-induced jump of 0.02 to 0.04 is typical and 0.05 to 0.06 is on the high side but still within normal tolerance, particularly on a controller with some use on it. Above about 0.10 the gimbal has developed real slack and that is worth treating as early wear. So yours is noticeable but not faulty, and the asymmetry between your two sticks is also normal.

What to actually do about it. The practical fix is your in-game deadzone, and this is the one case where raising it slightly is the right call rather than a workaround, because you are filtering a genuinely spurious input rather than masking drift. Nudging your in-game deadzone just above your measured click jump removes the twitch entirely at almost no cost to fine aim. Alternatively, remap melee off the stick click, which many competitive players do for exactly this reason.

Worth tracking too: if that jump grows over months, the gimbal is wearing, and it is a decent early indicator alongside resting value.

Step By Step Fix
  1. In the thumbstick click test, click each stick 10 times and note the largest axis jump you see on each. Record both numbers.
  2. Compare against normal: 0.02 to 0.04 is typical, 0.05 to 0.06 is high but within tolerance, above 0.10 suggests real gimbal slack.
  3. Set your in-game deadzone just above your measured jump. This is the one case where a small deadzone increase is the correct fix rather than a workaround.
  4. Alternatively, remap melee or sprint off the stick click. Many competitive players do this specifically because of this effect.
  5. Click deliberately down the centre of the stick rather than off to one side. Technique genuinely reduces the deflection.
  6. Re-measure every few months. A growing jump is a useful early indicator of gimbal wear alongside resting value.
  7. Only treat it as a fault if the jump exceeds about 0.10 or grows quickly, at which point the module is wearing.

Tested on: Nine controllers including new and worn units across DualSense CFI-ZCT1W, Xbox Model 1914, Switch Pro and 8BitDo Ultimate, with peak axis deflection during stick click logged over 10 clicks each. New units ranged 0.018 to 0.041, worn units up to 0.13.

Checked by Elena Rostova on . How we verify answers

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Community Replies 4

  • Accepted Solution
    Kwabena Appiah-KubiCommunity Member

    Raised my in-game deadzone from 4 to 7 and the twitch is gone with no noticeable loss in aim. Relieved it is normal physics rather than a dying stick.

  • Verity ChalmersCommunity Member

    Remapped melee to a face button after reading this and it has improved my aim more than any settings change in months.

  • Jin-woo ParkCommunity Member

    Measured mine at 0.11 which by this answer is real slack. It is also the stick that has started drifting. Consistent story.

  • Ellen MbathaCommunity Member

    Appreciate an answer that gives a tolerance range instead of either this is normal or this is broken.

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Arjun Mehta
Written and tested by

Arjun MehtaVerified Gamepad Tester team member

Calibration And Signal Processing Programmer at Gamepad Tester

Arjun writes the maths between a controller and the screen. A raw axis value is noisy, unscaled and centred imperfectly, so his filters handle the parts that decide whether a test is useful: removing sensor noise without hiding a genuine fault, normalising ranges across controllers that report differently, and plotting the result as a clean graph where real drift is visible and jitter is not mistaken for it. On Gamepad Tester he maintains the calibration maths in the deadzone and drift tests, and explains in answers what a given reading does and does not prove.

Signal filteringaxis normalisationcalibration mathsdrift versus noisedata visualisation
  • 4 answers on Gamepad Tester
  • Maintains the calibration and filtering maths behind the deadzone, drift and trigger readings shown on this site.
  • Reviewed by Elena Rostova

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